Troubleshooting Guide
Wear + Tear, the usual suspect For frozen Legacy Systems
If your Touch-Plate® system has suddenly locked up—where lights won’t turn on or off—don’t panic. This is caused by the regular use of your home’s switches and we see this problem in homes with older Touch-Plate lighting systems installed.
The good news? Most problems can be fixed safely and easily.
Touch-Plate is a low-voltage system, which means the wiring for your switches is safe to work with (you won’t get shocked). Read below for the simple tests you can do yourself to find and fix the issue—starting with testing for a worn-out switch.
Scenario 1:
Lights Stopped Working in One Room or Zone
This is one of the most common issues our customers have. One area or room is stuck ON or OFF, but the rest of the house works fine. The good news is, there is a safe and easy test you can do to find the problem!
Wall Switch Bypass Method (Low Voltage, Safe to Try)
Use this test to bypass a wall switch and see if it’s causing the issue.
What Do You Do:
- Remove the Wall Plate + Switch Mounting screws so you can see the wires.
- Disconnect the ‘switch’ wire, from the left + right side of the switch, then adjust the switch out of your way.
- Take the two wires you disconnected then briefly tap them together a few times.
- What Happened:
- Did it work? The lights are switching on/off. → replace the wall switch.
- Nothing happened? Reconnect the wires and repeat the test at the next switch in the same room or control the same lights.
If you’ve tested every switch that controls the same lights and still get no response, the problem is not the switches—you have a bad relay.
PRO-TIP:
Keep Spare Parts
Having a spare switch and relay on hand makes this test faster. You can swap in the spare parts and confirm failure instantly without wire-tapping.
Scenario 2:
Entire House is Stuck ON or OFF
Troubleshooting a stuck switch happens on the low-voltage side of the system. It is safe to work with, but if you’re not familiar with electrical systems, we strongly recommend hiring an electrician.
What is a Stuck Switch?
A switch becomes “stuck” when the button doesn’t return to its normal position after being pressed. It stays in the “on” state—like someone is holding it down. This keeps sending power to a relay and locks up your entire system, freezing all lights in their current ON or OFF state.
How to Troubleshoot It (Step-by-Step)
1. Check the Transverter Voltage
- Carefully touch the transverter. If it’s warm or hot, this is a strong sign of a stuck switch.
- Use a voltmeter on the DC setting to test the transverter’s output:
- 0.1–5.0 VDC = A stuck switch is present.
- 0 VDC = The transverter is dead. Replace it first, then continue with the steps below.
2. Isolate the Problem Zone
- At the transverter, find the low-voltage wire labeled “switch.”
- Disconnect the bundle of wires connected to it (usually a group of white wires).
- With the wires disconnected, briefly tap each one to the “switch” wire (one at a time).
- This will manually complete the circuit.
- You’ll hear the relay click when the wire connected to the stuck switch is tapped.
✅ No relay clicks = normal
🚨 Relay clicks = stuck switch found
Feeling Overwhelmed?
Is getting into an electrical panel making you uncomfortable or second guessing? We have a database full of skilled electrical contractors experienced with Touch-Plate systems just like yours.
3. Find the Room with the Problem
Once you find the stuck wire:
If relays are labeled, trace which room that wire controls.
If relays are not labeled, ask someone to walk the home as you tap wires.
The affected room’s lights will flash ON/OFF each time you tap the wire.
4. Disconnect the Problem Switch(es)
Once you’ve identified the room or load that’s stuck:
Disconnect all switches that control that light.
Make sure the bare wire ends do not touch each other or any metal.
5. Reconnect the System
Reconnect the remaining white wires to the transverter’s “switch” terminal.
You should not hear any relay clicking during reconnection.
If no clicking occurs, the system is now restored, and the other switches will function normally.
6. Test the Transverter Again
Recheck the transverter voltage.
It should now be reading at least 28.5 VDC.
If the voltage is still between 0.1–5.0 VDC, the issue hasn’t been resolved.
A stuck switch was missing, or there’s a second problem.
Return to Step 2 and repeat the process on each remaining switch leg.
7. Replace the Faulty Switch(es)
Any switches removed in Step 4 should now be replaced.
Use Touch-Plate brand or compatible 2-wire contact closure switches.
This ensures long-term compatibility and prevents future stuck-switch issues.
Keep Your System Healthy
Here’s how to avoid future stuck switches:
- Never paint or wallpaper over switches—they’ll stick.
- If a button feels “mushy” or doesn’t bounce back—replace it immediately.
- Keep a couple of spare switches on hand, it’s the easiest way to test and replace them.
Other Common Issues
Relay Doesn’t Click (No "Thunking" Sound)
- If you press the switch and nothing happens, the relay has likely failed.
- Replace with a modern 2-wire Touch-Plate relay
Lights Stop Working in Hot or Cold Weather
- Legacy relays used oil-based lubricants that can freeze or gum up.
- Replace with a modern Touch-Plate relay—problem solved.
Intermittent Operation / Flickering
- Check your transverter voltage (should be 28.5–44 VDC).
- Below 28.5 = transverter is weak and needs replacing.
- If it’s warm to the touch and the lights won’t change, check for a stuck switch.
Downloadable Troubleshooting Guides
Document
what it's for
Walkthrough of the full test process
For advanced diagnosis or contractors
A great visual guide for older systems
Answers to common homeowner questions
Still Need Help?
If the steps above don’t solve your problem, our team can help! We’ve seen every kind of stuck switch, dead relay, or unique system layout out there.
For Contractors & Pro Users
Need fast facts, voltages, and testing steps? Start here.
Voltage Readings to Know:
- 0 VDC = Dead transverter
- 0.1–5.0 VDC = Stuck switch present
- 28.5–32 VDC = Proper voltage for operation
- Over 44 VDC (no load) = Normal for modern TPS-0120
How to Test a Transverter:
- Measure across the low-voltage terminals (“switch” and “relay”).
- Use a voltmeter (DC mode) to confirm output.
- If under 28.5 VDC, remove the switch leg to verify the stuck switch.
- Replace it if still under voltage with no switch load.
Relay Diagnosis:
- Relay clicking but no light = Load issue or breaker
- No click = Failed relay or no signal from switch leg
- Replace with compatible 2-wire relay (e.g., 3000 model)
